Monday, 30 March 2015

Camino Day 7: Estella - Los Arcos (15/03/15)

We left the Municipal Albergue at 7.20 am. Despite the use of my silicone earplugs the snoring of Richard, an anaesthetist in his late 50’s from Australia in the adjoining bunk, had kept me awake and this had not been helped by the orange light streaming in the window from the street lights on the Estella bypass at the back of the albergue. I knew I should have pulled the window shutter down before I went to bed!

By 6.30am most people were already awake anyway and preparing for the day ahead; Richard was packing his bag and the Koreans had their gear spread out near the bathroom. Downstairs, as we donned our boots and took a final opportunity to use the wifi, Vira was heading out the front door in her trademark red beany and black cotton Buddhist nun robes.

David checking his email
David and I had agreed that during our walk, we would take the time each day to read two of the Psalms of Ascents; Psalms 120 – 134, as these were the Psalms the ancient Jews sang as they went up to the Temple in Jerusalem in pilgrimage on the major festivals. So we took a few minutes to read Psalms 120 & 121; the latter as mentioned earlier being my Dad’s favourite Psalm;
“I lift up my eyes to the Hills, where does my help come from?

My help comes from the Lord, the Maker of Heaven and Earth”
Vira certainly needed her hat, as the temperature as we headed along Calle Rua and out through the town gate, was very chilly and probably never rose higher than 5°C during the whole day. My hands were very cold and not for the last time on the walk, did I wish I had brought gloves. Other than that however, I was generally warm enough with three layers on, my Indian cotton scarf, my waterproof jacket and my trusty wide brimmed hat. Besides once we got walking we soon warmed up as we started ascending the small hill out of Estella towards Ayegui.
I
Estella town gate 

After about three kilometres we came to the famous wine fountain the Fuente del Vino at the Bodegas Irache winery! Although it sounds implausible and like something out of an adult version of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, it really is a real feature on the Camino! Several years ago the Bodegas decided to install the fountain, which provides either wine or water to refresh pilgrims. The Bodegas provides 100 litres of wine per day free of charge to pilgrims.
Just as we reached the fountain the heavens opened and an almighty hail shower began and so I quickly fitted my poncho and then filled a small bottle with wine for David and I to have later with our picnic lunch.
Fuente del Vino
Just beyond the Bodegas is the massive Monastery of Santa Maria la Real de Irache. The monastery was receiving pilgrims before Estella even existed and may date back to Visigothic times. What is certain is that records date back to AD 958 and in 1054 a pilgrim hospital was founded here by Don García de Najera forty years before King Sancho founded Estella. It was a Benedictine foundation and linked to Roncesvalles and holds a pivotal place in the history of Navarre. It flourished and increased in wealth in the 11th century and again in the 17th, when it became the site of the first university in Navarre. In the 19th century it was a symbol of the Carlists, who had a stronghold in Estella, in the succession crisis that led to a civil war in Northern Spain when King Fernando VII died without a male heir. After so much history and welcoming pilgrims for over 1,000 years it closed in 1985 due a lack of novitiates and is now a museum
Monastery at Irache
Unfortunately the Monastery did not open until 10.30 and there was no point waiting as it was only 8.15 am when we reached it, but I took the time to examine the beautiful sculptures on the 12th century Romanesque door of the church and to admire the bell tower of 1609 which was inspired by the one at El Escorial outside Madrid.
Lamb of God on Irache portal
Beyond Irache we now had two options; we could follow the more traditional route through Azqueta and Villamayor de Monjardín or the more scenic route through forestry to Luquín, which although 2km shorter than the other route, climbs higher to 720 M. We decided to take the road less travelled as John Brierley describes it (plagiarising Robert Frost)!
Almond blossom with Montejurra behind
Our choice was soon rewarded as we ascended, (with some exertion on my part as my body still did not feel fully ready for the rigours of early morning Camino walking!) into a beautiful wooded landscape. Initially open pasture land stretched before us, dotted with Almond trees in full blossom. The sides of the path were sprinkled with wild Hellebores, country cousins of the more gaudy ones seen in contemporary gardens; the light green of their foliage accentuating the dark red rim of the flowers as I took time to examine their understated beauty.
Wild Hellebore
Further along the pasture land gave way to mixed woodland of Holm Oak and Arbutus or Strawberry tree and I was reminded of the many strange connections between Northern Spain and Ireland. The Arbutus is also native to Co. Kerry along with several other Spanish species such as the Natterjack Toad. In addition, genetic studies have shown that the Irish are closely related to the Basques and genetic tests on a Bronze Age Bear found in a cave in the Burren in Co. Clare surprised scientists by showing that it’s nearest living modern relatives are in Northern Spain. Indeed Irish legend tells how the first inhabitants of Ireland came from Spain and this was discounted as fiction until the above studies showed otherwise. But how did species like the Arbutus or the bear come to be native in Ireland and not the rest of the British Isles? I mused on these things as I picked up a broken sprig of Arbutus lying on the ground and stuck it in my hat to celebrate the Hispanic-Hibernian connections.
Selfie with Monjardin behind me.
The forest eventually cleared and we stopped for some fruit and a cereal bar and to admire the wonderful view towards Monjardín Hill topped by the fortress of St Stephen which was the main fortress of the kingdom of Deyo-Pamplona after Sancho Garcés captured it from the half Spanish/ half Moorish Banu Qasi family. Later Charlemagne is said to have taken the fortress from a combined Navarrese and Saracen army.
View from summit near Luquin
The weather had improved and dried up so I removed my poncho which was becoming hot and sweaty.

Violets
We continued on as the trees thinned out totally giving generous views of the hilly countryside. Dew speckled violets and cowslips hugged the bases of stone walls and grassy embankments. A scallop shell was lying on a rock nearby and I gave it to David to tie to his rucksack as he hadn’t yet bought one.
Cowslips
Near the summit we encountered a young man wearing a dark blue beany taking a rest to examine his feet. We later found out that he was David – a 22 year old chef in a Michelin Star restaurant in Oxford who was walking the Camino but having considerable trouble with blisters on his feet.
Basilica of San Martin at Luquin
The café at Luquin, which would have been most welcome was closed so we moved on after admiring the finely carved portico of the Basilica of San Martin and the optional route rejoined the main route 1.5 km later, after it had passed under the A12.
Wild species of Brassica
The landscape now was very open and exposed as we gradually descended towards the Rio Caudiel. A stiff cold wind was blowing sideways across our path, so near the ruins of an ancient pilgrim hospital we found a sunken entrance to a field and hunkered down to eat our picnic – bread and Sardines in my case followed by some fruit, hazelnuts and chocolate and of course, some of the wine from Bodegas Irache. After eating we kept some of the bread and wine and took communion together and dedicated our walk to God.
David near the ancient pilgrim hospital
Walking on we bumped into Richard the Anaesthetist who greeted us with “Do I detect Poms? Prisoners of Her Majesty?” We explained that we were in fact Irish - “So you are Micks!” was his rather non- politically correct response, which would not have gone down well back home, but he was a friendly and larger than life character and we couldn’t help but find his loud and garrulous manner engaging and he seemed to attract the younger pilgrims around him by his cheerful personality. Richard explained how he had in fact done his Anaesthetic exams in Dublin in the days when Irish medical exams were accepted in Australia and when he heard that I was from Northern Ireland he retorted “So you are a Pom!” He was a little overweight and struggling with his legs, so after a while he waved us on “You Micks are faster than me!”
Vineyards near Los Arcos
The chilly wind abated and the last section into Los Arcos through vineyards dotted with wildflowers and more almond blossom, was very pleasant. We passed a small hill capped with Scots pines where tiny wild daffodils poked through the grass – I wish I had laid a €2 coin beside them for scale in the photograph to show their diminutive size.

Wild Daffodils
Los Arcos turned out to be a delightful town. With Roman origins and a population of only about 1,300, it developed in Medieval times as a centre of foreign exchange and toll collection because it was near the border between Navarre and Castille. Many of the streets were being repaved and it was quiet and tranquil.
Santa Maria & Portal Del Castilla
We booked into the Albergue de la Abuela (Granny’s albergue) which turned out to be the nicest albergue I had stayed in thus far. It was clean, modern, well organised with small dormitories and excellent bathrooms and a laundry service was offered – where dirty laundry was placed in a net bag, washed, tumble dried and returned for a small price; excellent!
We showered, changed and then walked around the narrow streets examining the town. The main feature of Los Arcos is the magnificent church of Santa Maria. Unfortunately it was closed but even the exterior is magnificent; somehow the different architectural elements, Romanesque, Gothic, Plateresque Renaissance and Baroque, dating from the 12th – 18th centuries, seem to harmonise, culminating in the 16th century bell tower and an elaborate portal with St. James holding the sword of his execution and martyrdom mentioned in Acts 12:2, to the right when facing the door.



We stopped for coffee and pastries in a café opposite the church. It was dead, save for ourselves and the two bar staff. However, hardly had we sat down when a large crowd of locals arrived and filled the bar to capacity, only to then disappear after several minutes. We noticed this feature in nearly every bar or café we visited; David called it rent-a-crowd! It was almost as if each café was waiting for tourists to arrive and then would spring to life, however we realised that the real reason was that unlike Ireland where people go the pub and spend half the night there, the Spaniards have a better idea; they are able to go and have one drink with their friends and then leave again to do something else!

Santa Maria, Los Arcos
We had a rest in the Albergue and decided to find a café for an evening meal. We had commented that it was strange that in such a small town we couldn’t see any of the other pilgrims anywhere. Choosing at random a café opposite the church we were directed downstairs only to find a basement dining room packed with other pilgrims. “Here come the Micks!” shouted Richard and everyone cheered and clapped! We had stumbled upon the birthday party of a German pilgrim called Heinz, who was clearly extremely drunk from a surfeit of vino blanco at €1!
Hobbit-like St James on a Los Arcos door
We joined the party where pans of paella were being served. As well as Richard and Heinz, Vira was there, David the Oxford chef, another German pilgrim, aged 30, called Toby, a very pleasant Brazilian pilgrim called Andre who was walking with Toby and whom I enjoyed talking to, another Brazilian called Ricardo who had walked the Camino eight times, and one of the South Korean girls we had met previously in Estella.

Portal Del Dinero
The craic and paella were mighty and it was amusing watching Heinz who was well gone, but clearly enjoying himself. After paella, Heinz was surprised with a large birthday cake and Ricardo made a speech about Heinz’s good heart and how they had enjoyed travelling with him which was translated by Toby. Heinz dissolved into tears, touched by the love, care and affection shown by people he had only met so recently. It was a wonderfully touching end to the day and summed up the intangible uniqueness of the Camino, where people of so many different nationalities share a common bond and experience and show each other such love and respect – qualities so hard to find in our increasingly impersonal society.
Heinz (in baseball cap) reading his birthday card,
watched by amongst others, Leo from South Korea (orange jacket) and David from Oxford

L-R Andre, Vira (red hat), Toby, Richard (beard) and Korean pilgrim
(unfortunately Heinz can't be seen behind Richard)

Sunday, 29 March 2015

Pamplona - Estella (14/03/15)

“What’s the weather like?” David asked as I pulled back the curtains and was shocked to reply “It’s….SNOWING!”. This was not the weather we had been anticipating; during the previous week it had apparently been 23°C on one day, but now it was barely 3 - 4°C! Walking out onto the balcony we observed large snowflakes falling and although they didn’t seem to be lying on the ground we wondered what conditions walking the Camino were going to be like!

We made our way down to a bar at the end of Estefeta Street and had a breakfast of Tortilla Potata, Café con leche (in my case) and Tea (in David’s). The locals were well muffled up against the inclement weather and one elderly gentleman was having an early glass of vino tinto to warm himself up. There was a pleasant early Saturday morning vibe in the bar and we noticed that the traditionally tiled floor was covered in fresh sawdust like Irish pubs in times past.
Plaza del Castillo was very different to the last time I had seen it when I was there in September; a light covering of snow covered the trees and bandstand and the warm evenings full of Matt attempting Basque dancing and Brazilian acrobats seemed only a dream.
Plaza del Castillo
 We checked out and made our way back to Pamplona bus station. The snow had become heavier and the Cuidadela was viewed through blizzard like conditions. We booked tickets and boarded the La Estellesa bus which runs from Pamplona to Logroño and takes approximately 50 minutes to reach Estella.
The Cuidadela viewed through the snow!
As we left the suburbs of Pamplona the snow finally stopped and we had a pleasant journey as we passed the sites of last Autumn’s pilgrimage: Alto del Perdón, Puente La Reina, Mañeru and Cirauqui. All flew past outside the window as I mentally relived the walk and fast forwarded to Estella.
Calle de la Rua
Arriving in Estella we made our way round to the Hospital de Peregrinos Albergue on Calle La Rua, however as it was only 12.00 and the albergue didn’t open until 13.00, I took David to Iglesia San Pedro so that he could receive the first stamp in his credencial here and symbolically begin his pilgrimage. On the way we passed Casa de Cultura Fray Diego and marvelled at the fine Renaissance moulding around the doors and windows featuring vines, fruits classical nudes and mythical beasts.
Casa de Fray Diego
After David had received his first stamp we shed our rucksacks and sat for a while in the peace of San Pedro. It was great to be back in Estella, ready to start the Camino again and I spent some time thanking God for allowing me to come back so soon. The apse and high altar looked beautiful and resplendent, decked out in purple with the symbols of Christ’s passion for Easter. We wandered around the cloister and David, being a Fire Safety Engineer was very impressed with San Pedro’s modern exterior glass lift that enables the disabled to reach the church, perched as it is above the town.

The high altar in San Pedro
San Pedro's impressive exterior lift
We also took time to look inside the Palacio de los Reyes de Navarra. The Palacio is now an art gallery and features the interesting art of Gustavo de Maeztu y Whitney (1887 – 1947). His paintings in deep reds, ochres and oranges were captivating and we were especially taken with the portrait of his sister as a graduate; the slightly melancholy air of her face contrasted markedly with the bright colours of the Summer garden behind her. Also interesting was the way the framework of a modern building had been carefully and sensitively inserted within what had obviously been the ruins of the 12th Century Palacio.
David's door!
We returned to the Albergue and checked in, where we met an American Buddhist nun called Vira, who was also just arriving. There was also quite a large group of Koreans in the dormitory. After choosing bunks and organising our belongings we decided to take another wander through Estella so that David could see some more of the town’s sights. After looking at the Jaws of Hell on the Tympanum of Santo Sepulchre, David was captivated by a nearby doorway studded with ironwork. During our time together David joked that I spent my time photographing flowers and churches and I reposted that David had an obsession with photographing doors!
Casa Palacio de los Munarriz
Walking into town we admired the Roccoco grandiloquence of Casa Palacio de los Munarriz (c.1750) with it’s oversized cornice and scallop shell balconies. I liked a honeymoon (la luna de miel) advert I spotted in a travel agent’s window and was shocked to see that four nights in Edinburgh cost €850!
La luna de miel advert
I showed David the Romanesque portal of San Miguel Church and we enjoyed examining the nativity scenes on the pillar capitals that I had missed the last time or the sculpture of St Peter being crucified upside down on the arch. After all this culture and high art, David let us down by lowering the tone to tweet a photograph of an extremely large and elaborate Easter Egg in the chocolate shop in Plaza de los Fueros!!
Scenes from the birth of Christ on the pillar capitals of San Miguel
St. Peter being crucified
We had coffee in a bar in the Plaza and a local came in and attempted to communicate with us in “Spanglish”, there seemed to be some possible misunderstanding that we were a gay couple, which was only cleared up when I showed our Spanish friend a photograph of myself and my wife in my wallet, but as David sat there drinking his tea instead of getting his Spanish app out on his phone, this was a mistake which I am sure could easily be made!
David's tweeted Easter egg!

We also took the time to do a bit of shopping in the only Eroski (a Basque chain) supermarket open in the town centre on a Saturday afternoon and stocked up supplies for a picnic the following day as we were aware a lot of shops and cafes are closed on a Sunday in Spain and some of the route we were taking the following day would pass through some relatively remote countryside.

After a rest at the Albergue we made our way back to the American Diner in the Plaza for the pilgrim menu at 8.00. I had alubias blancas – white bean stew as a Primo and Lomo – pork loin steak for Segundo accompanied by vino tinto and of course flan – crème caramel for dessert. Whilst eating we also spoke briefly to some Danish pilgrims.

 
After all the sightseeing and eating we felt we were now more than ready to get down to what we had come for – walking the Camino and we looked forward with anticipation to the next day.
The ham selection in the supermarket!

Saturday, 28 March 2015

Cork - Pamplona (13/03/15)


At last – it was time for Camino Part II!

Unfortunately, although I would dearly love to walk the entire Camino Francés as one continuous experience and hope to do so one day, due to family and work commitments I cannot take the time needed to do this at this point in my life. Therefore as I explained earlier in this blog, I am walking the Camino in stages, walking a week at a time when possible and then flying back to continue where I finished on a subsequent occasion.

This method of walking the Camino has pro’s and cons; on the negative side, it can be the case that just as you are getting into the rhythm of walking the Camino and gaining the maximum rest from having time to reflect and seek God, it is time to come home. On the positive side it means that I can take the time to really enjoy the Camino in detail and not feel I am rushing to get to Santiago as I find some pilgrims seem to be doing as they rush past interesting places and wildlife, seemingly oblivious. After all, the process of the journey  and what you learn along the way is just as important, if not more so, than arriving. The other benefit of walking the Camino in stages is that it is not as punishing on the body – just as the joints and feet are starting to ache, it is time to go home!

This time I was walking with my friend David King, aged 59, but definitely younger and fitter than his chronological age and definitely thinner than me! Initially I had been thinking about walking the Camino by myself on this occasion but David had never walked the Camino before, and having been considering it for some time, jumped at the chance to accompany me and experience it for himself. I was happy for him to come with me as we have similar reflective personalities.

The plan was to return to Estella where I finished last time and then walk for 6 days to Belorado with a detour off the usual Camino route on Day 4 to visit the Cistercian Abbey at Cañas and the UNESCO World Heritage Monasteries of Suso and Yuso at San Millán de la Cogolla. The total distance covered would be 140 km.

I stayed overnight at a friend’s house in Cork and David ordered a taxi and picked me up on his way to the airport at 5am. The taxi driver reassured us with tales of airport security lock downs he had experienced and how his pregnant wife had apparently been strip searched on returning to Ireland after a foreign holiday!
As there are no direct flights from Ireland to Biarritz in March, we had booked Ryanair flights from Cork – Stansted and then Stansted - Biarritz. This unfortunately meant a slightly tedious 4 hour layover in Stansted.

The flight to Stansted was remarkable chiefly for the fact that one of the passengers; a young man in his twenties was attracting bemused glances and attention because he was wearing a bright red suit dotted with white hearts. I can only presume he was the willing victim of a stag party, as we felt it was unlikely that his sartorial tastes could a serious choice – but who knows? I was personally reminded of a BBC Children’s TV presenter, Mr. Tumble, which my children used to watch as he who wore similar clown – type outfits.
The time was passed at the rather soul-less building that is Stansted (they don’t seem to favour too many seats for passengers to rest on!) with newspapers and some rather nice Asian food and I continued reading the newspaper on the Stansted – Biarritz flight whilst noting that the English lady beside me, who had the same “dragged through a bush” hairstyle as one of my eccentric Aunts and was reading a book about energy force fields on the Camino.

We arrived at Biarritz at 16.50. There were three queues for two passport officials at Biarritz airport which caused problems, but once through, we turned our attention to the buses. We needed to get to Pamplona by bus as I had booked us into a small hotel for the night. I had never used Spanish buses before and was slightly nervous about this leg of the trip. We soon discovered that we needed to get the CONDA bus to San Sebastian and then change for Pamplona. However, when we examined the timetable on the bus stop outside Biarritz airport it seemed to suggest that some of the buses didn’t stop at the airport and that it could be very late before we got to Pamplona.

We panicked! Hiring a taxi for €15 we travelled into Biarritz town centre. This was actually quite interesting as we got to see the large mansions from the early 20th Century when Biarritz was a favourite resort of the rich and famous, including Edward VII who used to travel there each Summer in a cavalcade of motorcars accompanied by his favourite mistress (but not his wife).

The seafront at Biarritz however was very cold with a tempestuous sea and gusting winds unsuitable for Edwardian bathing, so we quickly retreated to another Asian food house and then boarded the CONDA bus – which took us to San Sebastian, calling en route at….Biarritz Airport!! Oh well, you live and learn!

The Spanish bus driver, although he didn’t speak any English was very helpful and wrote down the times of the buses to Pamplona and directed us with a combination of gestures and our meagre Spanish, to the ALSA ticket office just down Sancho de Sablo boulevard across the road from the bus station, where we were able to buy our bus tickets to Pamplona. Overall on this trip we were very impressed with Spanish bus services; their punctuality and ease of access and the cleanliness and comfort of the very modern bus fleet.

As we had 50 minutes to wait for the Pamplona bus we popped into Café Autobus close to the ALSA ticket office and had a glass of vino tinto. Like myself, David was to become a fan of the odd glass of vino tinto as like me he found that when you walk the Caminon, the odd glass at lunch or at the evening meal, gladdens the heart and revives the spirits when the pilgrim is starting to slump!
David enjoying the vino tinto in Café Autobus
The bus journey to Pamplona passed uneventfully and we were surprised at how the motorway ascended into the mountains before we arrived at the impressive ultra-modern underground bus station in Pamplona which is situated under the park beside the Cuidadela.
The Hostal Navarra nearby on Tudela Boulevard turned out to be small but very clean and comfortable and we fell gratefully into our beds, pleased that so far our journey had largely gone to plan and we had arrived safely where we should be for the night.

Tuesday, 17 February 2015

Relaxing & Rejoicing

"The Lord is near. It is only the smallest step from the fretfulness to the peace of God's presence. God is with us. Will we be with God?"
                                                                                                                   Richard Foster
                                                                                                                     Life with God




Sunday, 15 February 2015

Camino Training

I'm excited that there is only one month to go until Camino Part II - my next walk from Estella - Belorado, kicks off on the 13th March when my friend David King and I fly Cork - Stansted - Biarritz!

As part of my preparations I started a new gym programme one month ago which involves a mix of cardiovascular training (10 minutes each on the bicycle, stepper and treadmill) weights (bench press, lateral pull down,leg extensions, gastroc strengthening, leg curls etc) squats, sit ups and a range of stretches.

The weather has also improved so I have taken the opportunity to do some hillwallking. Last Saturday I did 11.6 km around Claragh Mountain at Millstreet and yesterday I walked 24 km from Killavullen - Dromahane with one of my Camino friends Matt McCullagh through a mixture of Beech and Pine forest.


Summit of Claragh Mountain

Cairn on Summit of Claragh Mountain
where local legend says a priest was buried

Below the small cliff face on Claragh - a favourite nesting site for ravens

Beech forest outside Killavullen

Matt McCullagh

Harbingers of spring - Hazel Catkins

Looking towards Knockaroura Hill on the Blackwater Way


A pint of my favourite locally brewed Longueville House Cider
 in the pub at Mourneabbey

However, Camino preparations shouldnt just be physical, but spiritual as well. I am glad that my second walk is falling during Lent this year. I am from a Christian background (Presbyterian/ Charismatic / Independent House Church) which traditionally doesnt make anything of Lent and to my mind it has been much devalued by being reduced to a season to just give up chocolate or some other besetting vice! But although it is not a biblical observance, I am beginning to realise that it can actually be a useful time in the cycle of the year to take some defined time out (like the act of walking the Camino itself) to draw aside a little, take time out to reflect and hear from God. To that end this year I have decided to journey through Lent using Henri Nouwen's book The Return of the Prodigal Son as a focus whilst engaging with The Henri Nouwen Society's online Lent book discussion and also discussing the study questions with a Christian friend who is also a reflective guy like myself. I think this process of study and reflection will make Lent much more valuable and meaningful to me and I am sure walking the Camino in the middle of this period is not a coincidence but will be a valuable opportunity to hear from the Lord.

For anyone interested the online book study can be found at: http://wp.henrinouwen.org/rgroup_blog/?p=677

Monday, 2 February 2015

Life with God

I am not sleeping well at the moment, so I have been feeling weary and a bit demoralised, but I was encouraged today as I read words from Life with God by Richard Foster.

The following quotes inspired me to see that the ordinariness of our lives can actually be the place where God chooses to work. If we choose to have hearts that are open to him, the ordinary can in fact become imbued with a sacramental significance; it can become become an outward sign of an invisible grace or undeserved gift from God.

This also has resonance for walking the Camino; it can become more than just walking, so much more than just a hiking holiday, but a place to enjoy and reflect on God's undeserved favour in our lives; in the ordinary act of walking or in the appreciation of fellow walkers or the natural world around us.

But I will let Richard Foster explain better than I am able to do:

"If we are truly alive to the manifest presence of the living God, even the most ordinary of experiences can become an extraordinary experience of grace....Most of his [Jesus] years on earth were spent in ordinary human activities...only a tenth of his time was given to revealing his identity as the Messiah and engaging in ministry... [but] Jesus was growing in wisdom "and divine and human favour"(Luke 2:52)... We don't pay much attention to the forty years [Moses] spent herding sheep in the wilderness before God called to lead the Israelites out of slavery...

Material reality is not the opposite of spiritual reality, but the vehicle through which that reality becomes visible...

Life with God is an ongoing, ever-changing, relational adventure. It is not a matter of being driven through life, stopping every now and then to get out of the car and see the surroundings. God invites us to climb into the landscape of our journey, to breathe deeply with full lungs, to feel the blood pulsing through muscles doing what they were meant to do, to experience the wonder of having a body with which to see and hear and smell and taste and touch this astonishing world"

Sunday, 1 February 2015

James Rice - A Medieval Irish Pilgrim

 As this blog is not only about my personal experiences of walking the Camino  de Santiago but also about it's history and connections with Ireland, I was interested to hear from my friend Branden Bettger, about the Rice Tomb in Waterford Cathedral, which he has studied academically.

Apparently it is the only surviving medieval tomb in Ireland with an image of St James the Elder on it, where the donor actually went on pilgrimage to Santiago. This makes the tomb of enormous historical and cultural significance for Irish pilgrims and I have asked Branden to tell us more:
 
 
Guest Blog on James Rice and St James

Branden Bettger


I was recently asked by Michael to write a guest blog on fifteenth century Irish pilgrimage to Compostela and the association of pilgrimage with portrayals of St James the Elder on tombs, for whom Santiago de Compostela is named. I recently completed an MPhil thesis at University College Cork, Ireland titled ‘Death and Marian Devotion in Late Medieval Ireland’, in which I explored how the textual and visual representations of Mary on Irish tombs dating from ca.1400-1527 can be used to gain a greater understanding of the devotional lives and religious beliefs of the laity. In my studies, I came across some interesting portrayals of St James the Elder that display recognition of pilgrimage. One particularly significant portrayal is that found on the tomb of James Rice in Waterford.
 
The tomb of James Rice (d.1488) and his wife Katherina Brown was originally located in a chantry chapel dedicated to St James the Elder and St Catherine of Alexandria, which James Rice had constructed in 1482 off the north side of the medieval Waterford Cathedral, demolished in 1773. The tomb is now located in Christ Church Cathedral Waterford, completed in 1779. Upon first sight of the tomb, it is instantly recognizable as a transi tomb, as the effigy on the lid of the tomb is that of a decomposed corpse, most likely representative of James Rice himself. 
Overall view of Rice Tomb
http://gothicpast.com/items/show/2145
At the head end of the tomb, is the image of the Virgin and Child flanked by the figures of Margaret of Antioch and Catherine of Alexandria, who commonly appeared together in art of fifteenth-century Europe and can been seen in a similar arrangement on the fragments of a tomb in the grounds of New Abbey, a Franciscan friary at Kilcullen, Co. Kildare. The Rice tomb is surrounded by images of the twelve Apostles on the sides, identified as follows from the left to right of the spectator. On the south side, there are the Apostles Matthias, Jude (Judas Thaddeus), Simon, Matthew, Bartholomew, and Philip. On the north side, there are the Apostles James Minor, Thomas, John, James Major, Andrew and Peter. At the foot end of the tomb, opposite the Virgin and Child is a Throne of Grace style image of the Trinity, bordered by Edward the Confessor and Patrick on either side.

Image of Virgin, Margaret and Catherine
http://www.gothicpast.com/items/show/2156

Image of Trinity, Patrick and Edward
http://www.gothicpast.com/items/show/2124
 A well-cut black-letter inscription around the lid of the tomb reads as follows:

‘Here lies James Rice, formerly a citizen of this city and founder of this chapel, and Katherina Brown, his wife. You who stand here consider that what I am you will be, I was what you are, I beg you pray for me that when it is your fate to pass through the gate of death, our Christ who has come to redeem the lost lest the redeemed be damned, will have pity.’

‘HIC JACENT JACOBUS RICE, QUONDAM CIVIS ISTIUS CIVITATIS ET

FUNDATOR [ISTI]US CAP[ELLE ET KATERINA BROUN UXOR] EJUS

QUISQUIS ERIS, QUI TRANSIERIS STA PERLE[GENDA] PLORA SUM

QUOD ERIS, FUI QUOD ES PRO ME PRECOR ORA EST NOSTRA SORTIS

[TRANSIRE] PE[R OSTEA] MORTIS, NOSTRE CRISTE TE PETIMUS

MISERERE QUAESUMUS QUI VINISTI REDIMERE PERDITOS, NOLI

DAMNARE REDEMPTOS.’

            James Rice was mayor of Waterford eleven times between 1467 and 1486, and personally made two pilgrimages to Compostela during his time as mayor. The first pilgrimage was in 1473 and the second in 1483. He constructed his tomb in 1482 perhaps in part because of his planned pilgrimage the following year. The pilgrimage journey from Ireland could be very dangerous and typically involved a lengthy crossing by ship along with travel on land in areas that could be wrought with bandits. By constructing his tomb before his second pilgrimage, James Rice was not only ensuring he would have a respectable place of burial if he died, but also that he would receive prayer and masses on his behalf before, during and after his pilgrimage.

            The chantry chapel in which the Rice tomb was constructed, was essentially a private room dedicated for prayer to the Trinity and saints on behalf of James Rice, Katherina Brown, and their other family members. The display of Apostles and/or other saints on tomb surrounds rather than standard weepers, as in France and England, was a unique feature of Irish tombs during the fifteenth and early sixteenth centuries, and could have been practiced in Ireland as early as the fourteenth century. The use of the Apostles on the sides of tombs in place of other saints or weepers was not common anywhere else in northern continental Europe or Britain until the sixteenth century.

The figures portrayed on the sides of the tomb functioned in part as symbolic intercessors that guided the viewer in the direction of their prayers for James Rice and his family. For example, the Apostles were associated with the Apostles’ Creed prayer, and in some legends were said to have each contributed a verse to the prayer in the same order as displayed on the Rice tomb, with the exception of Paul when read in reverse order. The medieval order of the Apostles is as follows: Peter, Andrew, James, John, Thomas, James, Philip, Bartholomew, Matthew, Simon, Thaddeus, and Matthias. In essence, the images and the inscription on the tomb functioned like a three-dimensional prayer book that could be circumnavigated by the viewer.

The image of St James the Elder on the side of the tomb likely held special significance to James Rice, not only because St James was his namesake but also because he named his chapel after St James and felt compelled to travel to Compostela twice. Unfortunately, the image of St James is one of the most badly damaged on the tomb. During the late 15th and early 16th centuries, St James was commonly portrayed with a cockleshell and pouch, which if there is no longer clearly visible. However, his recognizable staff is still clearly visible. The hat is another common feature of representations of St James, but the hat on this figure is not as flamboyant as some other portrayals. It is possible that some of the wear seen on the image could be the result of devotion displayed toward to the image through touching the figure during prayer, a practice that can still be seen in some churches today.

Image of St James the Elder
http://www.gothicpast.com/items/show/2217
 
Christ Church Cathedral in Waterford is very much worth a visit to see this incredible tomb alone, which is a fine example of how the beliefs and experiences of an individual lay person were portrayed on a tomb that has been preserved for well over 500 years. While in Waterford, don’t miss the Medieval Museum. It holds some incredibly amazing and unique artifacts from the late medieval Ireland. Why not plan your own pilgrimage to Waterford soon?


For additional information see:

 

Hunt, John, Irish Medieval Figure Sculpture: 1200-1600: A Study of Irish Tombs with

Notes on Costume and Armour, 2 vols. (Dublin, 1974).

 

McEneaney, Eamonn, A History of Waterford and Its Mayors: From the 12th Century to

the 20th Century (Waterford, 1995).

 

McEneaney, Eamonn, ‘Politics and the Art of Devotion in Late Fifteenth-Century

Waterford’, in Rachel Moss, Colmán Ó Clabaigh and Salvador Ryan (eds), Art and

Devotion in Late Medieval Ireland (Dublin, 2006).

 

McEneaney, Eamonn, ‘The Art of Devotion’, Irish Arts Review 21 (2004), 112-115.

 

McEneaney, Eamonn, ‘The Waterford Madonna Lactans’, Irish Arts Review 25 (2008),

144.

 

McEneaney, Eamonn and Rosemary Ryan (eds), Waterford Treasures (Waterford,

2004).

 

Moss, Rachel, ‘Permanent Expressions of Piety: The Secular and the Sacred in Later

Medieval Stone Sculpture’, in Rachel Moss, Colmán Ó Clabaigh and Salvador Ryan

(eds), Art and Devotion in Late Medieval Ireland (Dublin, 2006).

 

Ó Riain-Raedel, Dagmar, ‘The Irish Medieval Pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela’,

History Ireland 6 (1998), 17-21.

 

Rae, Edwin C., ‘The Rice Monument in Waterford Cathedral’, Proceedings of the Royal

Irish Academy 69 (1970), 1-14.