Showing posts with label Ireland. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ireland. Show all posts

Sunday, 15 February 2015

Camino Training

I'm excited that there is only one month to go until Camino Part II - my next walk from Estella - Belorado, kicks off on the 13th March when my friend David King and I fly Cork - Stansted - Biarritz!

As part of my preparations I started a new gym programme one month ago which involves a mix of cardiovascular training (10 minutes each on the bicycle, stepper and treadmill) weights (bench press, lateral pull down,leg extensions, gastroc strengthening, leg curls etc) squats, sit ups and a range of stretches.

The weather has also improved so I have taken the opportunity to do some hillwallking. Last Saturday I did 11.6 km around Claragh Mountain at Millstreet and yesterday I walked 24 km from Killavullen - Dromahane with one of my Camino friends Matt McCullagh through a mixture of Beech and Pine forest.


Summit of Claragh Mountain

Cairn on Summit of Claragh Mountain
where local legend says a priest was buried

Below the small cliff face on Claragh - a favourite nesting site for ravens

Beech forest outside Killavullen

Matt McCullagh

Harbingers of spring - Hazel Catkins

Looking towards Knockaroura Hill on the Blackwater Way


A pint of my favourite locally brewed Longueville House Cider
 in the pub at Mourneabbey

However, Camino preparations shouldnt just be physical, but spiritual as well. I am glad that my second walk is falling during Lent this year. I am from a Christian background (Presbyterian/ Charismatic / Independent House Church) which traditionally doesnt make anything of Lent and to my mind it has been much devalued by being reduced to a season to just give up chocolate or some other besetting vice! But although it is not a biblical observance, I am beginning to realise that it can actually be a useful time in the cycle of the year to take some defined time out (like the act of walking the Camino itself) to draw aside a little, take time out to reflect and hear from God. To that end this year I have decided to journey through Lent using Henri Nouwen's book The Return of the Prodigal Son as a focus whilst engaging with The Henri Nouwen Society's online Lent book discussion and also discussing the study questions with a Christian friend who is also a reflective guy like myself. I think this process of study and reflection will make Lent much more valuable and meaningful to me and I am sure walking the Camino in the middle of this period is not a coincidence but will be a valuable opportunity to hear from the Lord.

For anyone interested the online book study can be found at: http://wp.henrinouwen.org/rgroup_blog/?p=677

Sunday, 1 February 2015

James Rice - A Medieval Irish Pilgrim

 As this blog is not only about my personal experiences of walking the Camino  de Santiago but also about it's history and connections with Ireland, I was interested to hear from my friend Branden Bettger, about the Rice Tomb in Waterford Cathedral, which he has studied academically.

Apparently it is the only surviving medieval tomb in Ireland with an image of St James the Elder on it, where the donor actually went on pilgrimage to Santiago. This makes the tomb of enormous historical and cultural significance for Irish pilgrims and I have asked Branden to tell us more:
 
 
Guest Blog on James Rice and St James

Branden Bettger


I was recently asked by Michael to write a guest blog on fifteenth century Irish pilgrimage to Compostela and the association of pilgrimage with portrayals of St James the Elder on tombs, for whom Santiago de Compostela is named. I recently completed an MPhil thesis at University College Cork, Ireland titled ‘Death and Marian Devotion in Late Medieval Ireland’, in which I explored how the textual and visual representations of Mary on Irish tombs dating from ca.1400-1527 can be used to gain a greater understanding of the devotional lives and religious beliefs of the laity. In my studies, I came across some interesting portrayals of St James the Elder that display recognition of pilgrimage. One particularly significant portrayal is that found on the tomb of James Rice in Waterford.
 
The tomb of James Rice (d.1488) and his wife Katherina Brown was originally located in a chantry chapel dedicated to St James the Elder and St Catherine of Alexandria, which James Rice had constructed in 1482 off the north side of the medieval Waterford Cathedral, demolished in 1773. The tomb is now located in Christ Church Cathedral Waterford, completed in 1779. Upon first sight of the tomb, it is instantly recognizable as a transi tomb, as the effigy on the lid of the tomb is that of a decomposed corpse, most likely representative of James Rice himself. 
Overall view of Rice Tomb
http://gothicpast.com/items/show/2145
At the head end of the tomb, is the image of the Virgin and Child flanked by the figures of Margaret of Antioch and Catherine of Alexandria, who commonly appeared together in art of fifteenth-century Europe and can been seen in a similar arrangement on the fragments of a tomb in the grounds of New Abbey, a Franciscan friary at Kilcullen, Co. Kildare. The Rice tomb is surrounded by images of the twelve Apostles on the sides, identified as follows from the left to right of the spectator. On the south side, there are the Apostles Matthias, Jude (Judas Thaddeus), Simon, Matthew, Bartholomew, and Philip. On the north side, there are the Apostles James Minor, Thomas, John, James Major, Andrew and Peter. At the foot end of the tomb, opposite the Virgin and Child is a Throne of Grace style image of the Trinity, bordered by Edward the Confessor and Patrick on either side.

Image of Virgin, Margaret and Catherine
http://www.gothicpast.com/items/show/2156

Image of Trinity, Patrick and Edward
http://www.gothicpast.com/items/show/2124
 A well-cut black-letter inscription around the lid of the tomb reads as follows:

‘Here lies James Rice, formerly a citizen of this city and founder of this chapel, and Katherina Brown, his wife. You who stand here consider that what I am you will be, I was what you are, I beg you pray for me that when it is your fate to pass through the gate of death, our Christ who has come to redeem the lost lest the redeemed be damned, will have pity.’

‘HIC JACENT JACOBUS RICE, QUONDAM CIVIS ISTIUS CIVITATIS ET

FUNDATOR [ISTI]US CAP[ELLE ET KATERINA BROUN UXOR] EJUS

QUISQUIS ERIS, QUI TRANSIERIS STA PERLE[GENDA] PLORA SUM

QUOD ERIS, FUI QUOD ES PRO ME PRECOR ORA EST NOSTRA SORTIS

[TRANSIRE] PE[R OSTEA] MORTIS, NOSTRE CRISTE TE PETIMUS

MISERERE QUAESUMUS QUI VINISTI REDIMERE PERDITOS, NOLI

DAMNARE REDEMPTOS.’

            James Rice was mayor of Waterford eleven times between 1467 and 1486, and personally made two pilgrimages to Compostela during his time as mayor. The first pilgrimage was in 1473 and the second in 1483. He constructed his tomb in 1482 perhaps in part because of his planned pilgrimage the following year. The pilgrimage journey from Ireland could be very dangerous and typically involved a lengthy crossing by ship along with travel on land in areas that could be wrought with bandits. By constructing his tomb before his second pilgrimage, James Rice was not only ensuring he would have a respectable place of burial if he died, but also that he would receive prayer and masses on his behalf before, during and after his pilgrimage.

            The chantry chapel in which the Rice tomb was constructed, was essentially a private room dedicated for prayer to the Trinity and saints on behalf of James Rice, Katherina Brown, and their other family members. The display of Apostles and/or other saints on tomb surrounds rather than standard weepers, as in France and England, was a unique feature of Irish tombs during the fifteenth and early sixteenth centuries, and could have been practiced in Ireland as early as the fourteenth century. The use of the Apostles on the sides of tombs in place of other saints or weepers was not common anywhere else in northern continental Europe or Britain until the sixteenth century.

The figures portrayed on the sides of the tomb functioned in part as symbolic intercessors that guided the viewer in the direction of their prayers for James Rice and his family. For example, the Apostles were associated with the Apostles’ Creed prayer, and in some legends were said to have each contributed a verse to the prayer in the same order as displayed on the Rice tomb, with the exception of Paul when read in reverse order. The medieval order of the Apostles is as follows: Peter, Andrew, James, John, Thomas, James, Philip, Bartholomew, Matthew, Simon, Thaddeus, and Matthias. In essence, the images and the inscription on the tomb functioned like a three-dimensional prayer book that could be circumnavigated by the viewer.

The image of St James the Elder on the side of the tomb likely held special significance to James Rice, not only because St James was his namesake but also because he named his chapel after St James and felt compelled to travel to Compostela twice. Unfortunately, the image of St James is one of the most badly damaged on the tomb. During the late 15th and early 16th centuries, St James was commonly portrayed with a cockleshell and pouch, which if there is no longer clearly visible. However, his recognizable staff is still clearly visible. The hat is another common feature of representations of St James, but the hat on this figure is not as flamboyant as some other portrayals. It is possible that some of the wear seen on the image could be the result of devotion displayed toward to the image through touching the figure during prayer, a practice that can still be seen in some churches today.

Image of St James the Elder
http://www.gothicpast.com/items/show/2217
 
Christ Church Cathedral in Waterford is very much worth a visit to see this incredible tomb alone, which is a fine example of how the beliefs and experiences of an individual lay person were portrayed on a tomb that has been preserved for well over 500 years. While in Waterford, don’t miss the Medieval Museum. It holds some incredibly amazing and unique artifacts from the late medieval Ireland. Why not plan your own pilgrimage to Waterford soon?


For additional information see:

 

Hunt, John, Irish Medieval Figure Sculpture: 1200-1600: A Study of Irish Tombs with

Notes on Costume and Armour, 2 vols. (Dublin, 1974).

 

McEneaney, Eamonn, A History of Waterford and Its Mayors: From the 12th Century to

the 20th Century (Waterford, 1995).

 

McEneaney, Eamonn, ‘Politics and the Art of Devotion in Late Fifteenth-Century

Waterford’, in Rachel Moss, Colmán Ó Clabaigh and Salvador Ryan (eds), Art and

Devotion in Late Medieval Ireland (Dublin, 2006).

 

McEneaney, Eamonn, ‘The Art of Devotion’, Irish Arts Review 21 (2004), 112-115.

 

McEneaney, Eamonn, ‘The Waterford Madonna Lactans’, Irish Arts Review 25 (2008),

144.

 

McEneaney, Eamonn and Rosemary Ryan (eds), Waterford Treasures (Waterford,

2004).

 

Moss, Rachel, ‘Permanent Expressions of Piety: The Secular and the Sacred in Later

Medieval Stone Sculpture’, in Rachel Moss, Colmán Ó Clabaigh and Salvador Ryan

(eds), Art and Devotion in Late Medieval Ireland (Dublin, 2006).

 

Ó Riain-Raedel, Dagmar, ‘The Irish Medieval Pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela’,

History Ireland 6 (1998), 17-21.

 

Rae, Edwin C., ‘The Rice Monument in Waterford Cathedral’, Proceedings of the Royal

Irish Academy 69 (1970), 1-14.

Sunday, 25 January 2015

The Saint's Road


On the Dingle Peninsula in Co. Kerry is an ancient Irish Pilgrim path called The Saint's Road or Cosan na Naomh in Irish. The Dingle Peninsula is an extraordinary place where the last vestiges of Western Europe clash with the vast expanse of the Atlantic in a final showdown of spray and rocky islands. There is an almost vertiginous feeling about the place; a heightened awareness of the turning of the Earth or the curve of the horizon.

The path meanders it's way across this rugged and breathtaking landscape making its way from sparkling sea to windswept mountaintop, along it's length dotted with Neolithic monuments, Early Irish Monastic sites and Medieval Romanesque Church remains.

Like the Camino, the path has pagan origins; in all probability the pre-Christian Irish worshipped the Celtic god Lugh on top of Mount Brandon which was also originally associated with another pagan deity Crom Dubh who Lugh would symbolically triumph over at the festival of Lughnasa - celebrated at the significant seasonal cross day half way between the Summer Solstice and the Autumn Equinox.
By the latter part of the 1st Millennium AD however St Brendan the Navigator had supposedly banished Crom Dubh from the mountain and Cosan na Naomh had become an important Irish pilgrimage. Pilgrims would arrive by sea either at Dingle Harbour or the beach at Ventry and then walk to the summit of Mount Brandon, stopping off at the various sites of spiritual significance along the way. In later centuries this evolved into a Roman Catholic festival or "Pattern" known locally as Crom Dubh Day, when pilgrims would walk from Cloghane to the summit of Mount Brandon on the last Sunday in July - the same day that pilgrims ascend another Irish pilgrim mountain, Croagh Patrick in Co.Mayo and very close to St James's Day on the 25th July.
Mount Brandon
In Natasha and Peter Murtagh's book Buen Camino! (see Additional Reading page) Peter Murtagh recounts how he climbed Croagh Patrick and then took a scallop shell (a traditional symbol of St James) from an eroded Mesolithic site on the shore of Clew Bay and tied it to his rucksack when he walked the Camino. I thought this had nice symbolism - taking something on the Camino from an early Irish pilgrim trail and since my American friend Eric Kruschke and I had walked the Saint's Road in 2009 and published a book on our experiences (again see additional reading), I felt it would be fun to take a scallop shell from Ventry strand on my next Camino walk in March.
When I started the Camino last September I bought a small purple scallop shell in St Jean Pied de Port. Its looking a bit chipped and battered after bouncing around on the outside of my rucksack, but I've got rather fond of it, so I will keep that on my rucksack, but my work colleague Patricia Morrisroe, who has a holiday home at Ventry has also given me another scallop shell from Ventry which I will also take it this time when I walk in March.

I love it's weather beaten appearance; encrusted with Barnacles and Serpulid worm tubes, I can imagine it lying in the shallow sandy water off Ventry amongst the kelp, its covering of algae gently waving in the shifting currents. I know its many centuries since pilgrims last splashed ashore at Ventry but the scallop shell seems an appropriate encrustation on my own rucksack!