Camino Day 14: San Juan De Ortega - Burgos Part II (06/10/15)

It was after 2pm by the time we finally left Cartuja de Miraflores and we were feeling very tired and hungry. I was particularly concerned about Matthew, who had been very patient while I looked round the monastery, but now looked very pale and exhausted and was suffering with the pain in his knee. As we walked back down the hill towards Burgos, he looked ready to collapse, so I insisted that he sucked the entire contents of a tube of glucose energy gel that I gave him. I remembered having my slump on the way to San Millán, so I knew what it could feel like!

We walked back to where we had left the path beside the rio Arlanzón (this took about 20 minutes and then continued until we reached a large wide boulevard called Timoteo Arnaiz. Unfortunately, to add to our hunger, tiredness and weakness, we now had to face again the inaccuracy of the urban maps in John Brierley’s guidebook. I was keen that we stay at the Casa de Peregrinos Emaús Albergue; a Parish albergue that I liked the sound of in the guidebook because it said that it had a shared meal with Christian prayer and a pilgrim blessing. It was situated on the south side of the river, on the opposite side from the medieval city centre. The map of Burgos in the guidebook showed clearly that all we had to do was walk down Timoteo Arnaiz and turn right onto calle de San Pedro de Cardeña. The Albergue was shown as being situated at the corner of the calle and calle Molinillo and the accompanying blurb said that it was at 31 calle de San Pedro de Cardeña.

We trudged in a very weary manner along the above streets. They turned out to be longer than they looked on the map and the area was rather scruffy and had that ugly urban look that many city suburbs have, which did not enhance our mood. I kept a concerned eye on Matthew who looked thoroughly exhausted and fed up.

We finally reached the site marked on the map as the location of the albergue, but instead, were confused and rather irritated to find a bar! We looked up and down the street, but could see no albergue or church. Exhausted, we decided to go into the bar to see if they served pintxos and regroup! Luckily, the bar was still serving a good variety of pintxos and I immediately ordered a large selection accompanied by three glasses of rioja whilst Matthew went off to the bathroom for what seemed a very long time (he later told me that he was so tired that he was nearly in tears and so thought he had better go in the bathroom for a while. He had felt like giving up, but as I said to him later, he didn’t – perserverance makes a real pilgrim and he showed it that day and I was proud of my friend). When he returned, he told me that he didn’t feel like eating but David and I told him we didn’t care whether he felt like it or not and ordered him to eat to regain his strength. By the time we had all eaten several pintxos, had some wine and then coffees (and a hot chocolate for Matthew), we all began to feel a bit better at least!

We now discussed what we were going to do. Should we give up attempting to find the Emaús albergue and walk on into the city centre? We showed the barman the map, but he looked at it in astonishment and couldn’t make it out and just shrugged. He didn’t seem to have heard of the Emaús albergue. I returned to the table and then had the bright idea that since in the guidebook it said that the albergue was situated behind the church of San José Obrero, maybe he had heard of the church, if not the albergue? I tried again – “Por favour – iglesia San José Obrero?” Ah! This time recognition from the barman and he drew directions on a piece of paper. It turned out that the albergue was not on calle de San Pedro de Cardeña at all, but in a street that ran parallel behind it and was not even marked on the map! Note to John Brierley, Camino Guides and Findhorn Press – please improve your urban maps!!

We walked round to the church in less than two minutes and found a door at the side with a notice that said that pilgrims could only stay there if they had not already stayed at another albergue in Burgos. Matt had arrived in Burgos the day before and although he had also seen the sign earlier in the day, he had tried to bluff his way in and stay there, but was turned away when he presented his credencial and the stamp from the previous night was spotted – I don’t know why he even tried it!? He texted us and told us that he was now staying at Hostal Evolucion in the city centre instead.

We rang the bell and were greeted by the Hospitalero, a very friendly French woman called Marie-Noelle who explained that the rules of the Emaús albergue were different than in most albergues. Firstly we had to keep the noise down as there was a continuous adoration of the eucharist taking place in the chapel downstairs inside the building. The worshippers were also praying for the pilgrims who stayed in the albergue. Secondly there was a mass and pilgrim blessing at 6.30pm and the albergue locked its doors at 8pm (most albergues stay open until 10pm) because there was a communal meal and prayer time after the mass. “These are the rules – we try to create a place of rest for pilgrims, do you still want to stay?” We said we were quite happy to do so – it sounded great to us!

Inside, the albergue was very well appointed and the nicest that I have stayed in – better even than the Check In Rioja albergue in Logroño! Marie-Noelle explained that the building had been a Jesuit Seminary which had closed and become dilapidated. The parish priest now in residence had the visionary idea of raising money to restore the seminary building, create an albergue inside part of it and create a chapel to provide mass for the locals. At the time the priest had been told that he was mad, would never raise enough money, would bankrupt himself and that pilgrims would not want to stay in this part of the city. However, he preserved and eventually, the work was completed to an extraordinary level of quality and detail.

The Jesuit Seminary staircase

Leaving our boots on the ground floor, Marie-Noelle took us up the wide sweeping staircase of the old seminary with it’s stained glass windows, to the second floor where the albergue had been created. On one side of the staircase landing were the bedrooms and bathrooms, furnished with bunks and lockers in Scandinavian style light wood. The showers were good quality and we even discovered the following morning that there were speakers set into the walls to wake us up with gentle choral music! On the other side of the landing there was a lovely cosy lounge area also clad with timber, steps to a small balcony library, an open plan dining area and a well-appointed kitchen.

Several other pilgrims were already staying at the albergue – an Italian called David from Turin, a Danish lady who lived in Sweden, a German lady and a brother and sister from Poland. All spoke good English and we chatted to them and enjoyed their company.

We gratefully showered and washed our clothes (including re-washing the damp ones we had not manged to dry at San Juan de Ortega. Although the tumble drier wasn’t working, there was a balcony and we hung our clothes to dry there instead.

Walking along the rio Arlanzon into Burgos

Matthew was feeling more energised now that he had digested his pintxos and showered and so we texted Matt and agreed to meet him in the city centre after I had shown Matthew the cathedral. Marie-Noelle informed us that entrance to the cathedral was free on that day.

Matt with the churros con chocolate

The walk into town took about twenty minutes and we spent an hour walking around the cathedral before bumping into Matt near the chapels around the high altar. We were slightly limited for time, because we wanted to be back at the albergue for the mass and pilgrim blessing, so we left the cathedral and went to the Favour Chocolate café in Plaza Santa Maria – opposite the main entrance of the cathedral. The café was decorated in early twentieth century gentile splendour and we indulged in churros con chocolate – very large, long fingers of fried dough, sprinkled with sugar for dipping in really superb thick viscous chocolate caliente. Excellente! Mega calorie intake! We felt however that we could afford to indulge after all our walking! We were rather shocked to see that the menu suggested that one serving should consist of seven churros to eat for each person, but we managed to reduce this and ask for one serving of churros only to share with our three hot chocolates!

Matt had been walking for a few days by himself since Ben had left him at Najera to go to Brazil and had not seen either of us for about two weeks, so he was extremely talkative in a way that Matthew and I found rather shocking after David and ourselves had lived fairly quietly together for the last few days. In the café Matt started a random stream of consciousness that he specialises in at times, sharing with us his knowledge of Spain gleaned over the previous two weeks, telling us about the various pilgrims he was walking with and even explaining the “correct” pronunciation of Najera to me ;-) We love him dearly and were glad to see him, but in a way, we were also glad to leave him talking to the tourists at the next table whilst we headed back to the Emaús albergue!

Marie-Noelle with German pilgrim

We returned just in time for the mass. The chapel was full of locals from the area surrounding the church, which I liked as I felt it had an authentic feel and lacked the “touristy” feel of some of the churches I have been in on the Camino. A local signalled at Matthew and made room for him on a pew and I sat at the back with David from Turin. The three of us observed the Mass, whilst most of the pilgrims went forward and took the Eucharist. Afterwards all of us went forward for a pilgrim blessing from the priest.

Marie- Noelle then escorted us back upstairs, where we set the dining table and had a simple but filling meal, whilst sharing our stories and laughing and chatting together. Marie-Noelle explained how, each morning, she bought food for the evening meal using money donated by pilgrims who had stayed the previous night.

Matthew, Marie- Noelle, David, Me, David from Turin,

with the Polish, German and Danish pilgrims

After our meal we washed the dishes together, set the table for breakfast and then shared a time of communal prayer together. We were given a little booklet as a gift and read Luke chapter 24, verses 13-35 together before praying the pilgrim blessing. It was a wonderful time of fellowship; a time of peace and unity despite being from so many nationalities and the whole visit to the albergue was such a restful experience – a credit to Marie- Noelle who welcomes pilgrims day after day and yet seems unflagging in her gracious welcome and hospitality to pilgrims.

Luke 24: 23-35

Now that same day two of them were going to a village called Emmaus, about seven miles from Jerusalem. They were talking with each other about everything that had happened. As they talked and discussed these things with each other, Jesus himself came up and walked along with them; He asked them, ‘What are you discussing together as you walk along?’ They stood still, their faces downcast. One of them, named Cleopas, asked him, and ‘Are you the only one visiting Jerusalem who does not know the things that have happened there in these days?’ ‘What things?’ he asked. ‘About Jesus of Nazareth,’ they replied. ‘He was a prophet, powerful in word and deed before God and all the people. The chief priests and our rulers handed him over to be sentenced to death, and they crucified him; but we had hoped that he was the one who was going to redeem Israel. And what is more, it is the third day since all this took place. In addition, some of our women amazed us. They went to the tomb early this morning but didn’t find his body. They came and told us that they had seen a vision of angels, who said he was alive. Then some of our companions went to the tomb and found it just as the women had said, but they did not see Jesus.’ He said to them, ‘How foolish you are, and how slow to believe all that the prophets have spoken! Did not the Messiah have to suffer these things and then enter his glory?’ And beginning with Moses and all the Prophets, he explained to them what was said in all the Scriptures concerning himself. As they approached the village to which they were going, Jesus continued on as if he were going further. But they urged him strongly, ‘Stay with us, for it is nearly evening; the day is almost over.’ So he went in to stay with them. When he was at the table with them, he took bread, gave thanks, broke it and began to give it to them. Then their eyes were opened and they recognised him, and he disappeared from their sight. They asked each other, ‘Were not our hearts burning within us while he talked with us on the road and opened the Scriptures to us?’ They got up and returned at once to Jerusalem. There they found the Eleven and those with them, assembled together and saying, ‘It is true! The Lord has risen and has appeared to Simon.’ Then the two told what had happened on the way, and how Jesus was recognised by them when he broke the bread.

Bendición del Peregrino

Lord, bless the pilgrim’s feet…Bless his suffering, the result of many kilometres.

Bless these feet which have borne the weight of the day; bless every step of this way and bless all the ways and steps of his life. Lord, bless his history.

Lord, bless his rucksack. Bless the weight he carries on his shoulders, bless everything he has left at home before leaving and suffering; bless his family, his work, his relationships…May your blessing, Lord, lighten the weight of the day.

Lord, bless his eyes. You made them for contemplation. All along the way, may his eyes become familiar with the beauty of creation, the beauty of each pilgrim, the beauty of each gesture of affection and of service. Open his eyes, that one day they may meet you and recognise you!

Lord, bless his heart. That all along the road YOU may be his special guest. Like the disciples of Emmaus, I say to you: “Stay with me, Lord and YOU shall be my greatest blessing”.

Amen!